Khun Walee lives her dream at the Kan Eang@ pier restaurant in Chalong. Restaurant, coffee lounge, and a fabulous event-setting, it's everything you could wish for in a place to eat, and meet friends. Or, you could choose to spend some solitary time, working on your laptop with the free wireless Internet.

In the Chalong bay area last month, on quite another errand, I walked along the front past a lighthouse and was drawn, magnet-like to this beautiful setting, all chores forgotten.

Rows of local boats lined the foreground, and at once I felt far away from the swamping hordes of tourists.

Excitedly snapping pictures of this lovely place, I recalled that I'd been here two years ago. I gazed upon the scene, remembering how this restaurant looked when I was last there. The food had been excellent; but small and hidden is how I would have described the restaurant. Now, it's a wide open space with plenty of seating, and yet... everyone is made to feel special.

I ordered some food and was joined by a very lovely woman who turned out to be the proprietor, Khun Walee. She told me that when her husband and she decided on a new design, four different architects were employed to ensure that each aspect of the new space was perfect. The most important consideration was that no old trees were to be lost in the construction. The care and insight shows.

Not having the time to do my meal or the excellent company justice (I'd just remembered my original mission), I made a plan to return with a friend the following day. In the evening, the space takes on a magical effect, romantic and mysterious. Day or night, one can see right across the restaurant, and it has panoramic views which ever way you look.

Reflect as you gaze out of the restaurant that there are no yachts on view, just some longtails...a welcome sight. Save for the pier, this is as it was 30 years ago. Serene. We chose our drinks from the quickly-offered menu, fresh coconut for me, and rum and coke for my less-healthily inclined friend. We were soon joined by the lovely hostess.

Khun Walee proceeded to tell us about the history of the restaurant. It winds back 30 years! And they still run it how they used to, buying fresh seafood from the fishermen then cooking it in the unique traditional method of barbecuing it in coconut husks.

Local dishes, such as Bua Tod, batter-fried fresh water weed with shrimp, plus Hor Mok steamed fish in a curry mousse and a special sauce- are yummy. A Taro basket with delectable, stir fried chicken, sausages, cashew nuts,sweet chilly and onions inside, is one of the signature dishes at Kan Eang@ pier. These dishes, Khun Walees informed us, are as well received today, as they were long ago. Hardly surprising, we thought, as we nibbled our way through.

Our charming hostess told us that her family valued their place in the community, and prices were still affordable to local people who can be found dining here most nights. All those years ago, it was she who taught her husband how to use coconut husks to impart a delightful flavour to the BBQed fish, lobsters, crab and shrimps always caught and cooked on the same day.

Khun Walee is very much the face of the restaurant, and looks over the daily management and running, and also puts in a lot of time to make her guests feel welcome and at home. She is sometimes referred to as a "Superwoman" by her staff, who can only shake their heads over how she stays on top of everything. Khun Walees is quick to tell us: "I am not a Superwoman, but we are a Super Team, my staff and I." As for her husband, who prefers to work behind the scenes, "he is the power beneath my wings," she smiles.

She spends a large portion of her time educating and reminding her staff of the role they play in the organization. "Team work is everything," she says, "and the staff must feel like this is they're own place. Also, they must realise the impact their actions have on the customers. It is in our hands to make our clients feel good, and we go out of our way to make sure they have the best time every time they come here. That is what we are all about."

Kan Eang@ pier restaurant, is near the Chalong pier