It's amazing how much even a clinically sterile arrival section at an airport can tell you about the country you are just about to discover.

A muslim immigration official with a pretty head-scarf is chatting with her colleague- of a South Asian origin I cannot guess- before she turns to smile and stamp my arrival. The whole process takes a minute, as I'm the only one in my 'line'.

As I drag my tiny strolley though the myriad duty free stores and cafes, the first word to cross my mind is: slick

Chinese attendants at a perfume store hand me exotic smells on test-strips. An Indian security official helps me pick up magazines that I have dropped in typical confused arrival slumber-state. I thank her and my eyes rest a while on the delightful contrast between the large red bindi on her forehead, and her crisp light blue uniform. A muslim family sashays by, like a live brochure for a collection of beautiful shimmering silks and lace. Wow, I think. Truly Asia?

Malaysia. I couldn't wait.

I'm travelling with other media-persons from Phuket, all Thai and we are guests on a Tourism Malaysia familiarization tour. It is my first time to this country and I am additionally excited because I am about to visit the East Coast, a relatively lesser known destination than the much (no doubt deservedly) hyped Langkawi and Genting Highlands.

As I join the rest of my group at the departure lounge, the same muslim family glides by me again. They are, like us, headed to Kelantan, and they are my first glimpse into what I can expect in this unique state...

Khota Baru

I've never seen so many head-scarves in all my life. Or so many women, although perhaps they are just easier to spot because of the beautiful, colourful silks wrapped around their heads. In a non-descript mall in the centre of the city, while my travel companions shop for bargain batiks, I watch the steady swirl of exotically framed faces going past my fountain-edge seat. Occasionally there is a female without a scarf, more often than not Chinese, and sometimes quite distinctly Indian or even Malay.

Their gait is gentle, and they carry the happy, satisfied expressions of a prosperous society that is nevertheless unsaddled by haste or ambition.

For a real look into how the economy is doing, go to the markets, someone clever has said. The next morning, we are trooping down to the 'wet' market .

A sight for droopy eyes. It is a kaleidoscope of colours, fabrics and customs. A colossal dome looms high above three storeys of stalls, fresh vegetables, meat and fruits on the ground, fabrics and tunics on the second, assorted knick-knacks and souvenirs on the third. Even more women! This time it is unmistakable.

The market is in fact called the Siti Khadija, named after the wife of Prophet Mohammed, so named because it is largely run and operated by women. As a scale for prosperity, this one is simply ringing. There is a transaction happening in every booth, at every stall. Everywhere we look buyers- mostly women- are feeling silks, inspecting greens and tasting goodies. And ringitts are changing hands.

Just outside the market, a wily salesman is demonstrating kitchen gizmos. With a single fancy cutter, he deftly swipes veggies into strips of various fancy shapes and sizes. A stately lady in a starched tunic and sombre scarf glares at him intently and suspiciously from a few metres away. The gathered crowd watches in fascination. The demonstration ends. The stately lady walks slowly to the table. The crowd parts like water. The salesman gulps as she stares him down. After a few seconds of obvious internal battle, she picks two cutters and pays for them, still looking supremely disdainful. She departs just as regally as she arrived, leaving the salesman smiling in relief.

The traffic in Kota Bharu is sparse, and roads are wide. Nevertheless, we are caught in small but slowing jams on the way to the Merdaka monument. Right by the palace which now serves as museum, which is sadly closed, today being Friday, is the Merdaka square monument, a World War memorial. Large Qurans sit atop long pillars. The monument is now beheld as a tribute to Malaysia's independence. It's a peaceful spot and certainly has an energy about it.

The beaches in Kelantan are long and wide, but the waters are choppy, and made for surfing, rather than swimming. However, if you're looking for large empty spaces, and some colourful local scenes, pop down.

Here we meet our Thai guide, who is to show us around from here on. "Hello." I say, "Nice to meet you. Do you live in Kelantan?", rashly forgetting that this, when translated into Thai, sometimes means "Hello, You Superb Specimen of the Opposite Sex, I'm desperately lonely and refreshingly naive. Please shower me with your relentless, unwanted attention for the rest of this trip."

Luckily, Kelenatan is an entrancing place, and not much can distract you from taking it in. Mosques are everywhere in this overwhelmingly Islamic state. Other buildings too boast exquisite Islamic architecture. The people are relaxed and friendly, and easily approachable.

I chat with two young muslim girls, whose English is flawless. They are from the city of Salan, and here over the Chinese New Year weekend to attend a family wedding. I can only imagine what an explosion of colours and traditions that event will be.

Some of my envy is dimmed when we arrive at the opening ceremony of the Visit Kelantan Year. A lively parade boasts many of the arts and social customs of the region, with much music and dancing and informal waving to friends in the crowd.

Tourists who visit Kelantan must not miss a chance to witness these fascinating performances held at the tourism offices on certain weekdays.

On our way out of the state, we visit silver and batik stores, where my friends finally find the excellent bargains they are seeking. Many stores will let you tour adjoining the workshops, where these beautiful creations are being crafted before your eyes.

Terrenganu

The drive to Terrenganu, a neighbouring state lasts about two hours and is speckled mosques and lined with beautiful countryside.

We whizz past the new, uber-modern sports stadium being built to a pier where we catch a boat to go see the Crystal mosque up close.

It is magnificent. The real crystal is only embedded on the globes at the top of the steeples, the rest of the mosque is constructed from crystal mirrors, and the effect is outstanding. The opaque olive green mirrors reflect the skies and the clouds, a stunning vision.

In the same complex, finishing touches are being put to the edutainment centre, where more than 20 Islamic buildings of global importance have been recreated in an avergae scale of 1:10.

Squeals of joy greeted the Pattani mosque of Thailand. I must admit my heart skipped a beat at the sight of the Taj Mahal.

The King of Malaysia is the ex-sultan of Terranganu, and locals are hence expecting much development for the area. I have a feeling they will not be disappointed. As we regretfully leave the lovely city of Kuala Terrenganu, admiring all elaborate beautiful, stately buildings on the way to the airport, the airport itself turns out to be no less a vision. An opulent, Islamic structure of detailed motifs and much charm is in construction. It is a huge building for such a small state and as of now, there are only two airlines flying to Kuala Lumpur, the only destination offered...

KL...

As our flight dips towards the airport in Kuala Lumpur, I gaze out of my window thinking surely there has been a mistake. Instead of a grey, congested metropolis, we seem to be landing into a palm grove. As far as the eyes can go, millions of palms make a green, spiky pattern. My introduction to Kuala Lumpur is a gorgeously lush one. But KL is another story....


For details and more information on Kelantan and Terrenganu, visit www.tourismmalaysia.com or email: enquiries@tourism.gov.my