ONE of the best things about living in Phuket is that the island is always full of surprises. No matter how long you live here, there is always something quirky, eccentric or downright bizarre around the next corner.

Tatonka Restaurant, situated on Srisoonton Road in Cherngtalay is one such delightful surprise. Srisoonton Road is the slightly rutted soi leading into the mighty Laguna Complex with its plethora of luxurious resorts and up-scale hotels.

After forking left at the Cherngtalay traffic lights, immediately on your right is a little lane forming a loop off the main road. This interesting backwater is home to a warren containing an art gallery, antique and cultural artifact boutiques, massage shop, alluring bars and this gem of a restaurant.

You could easily pass by Tatonka as the frontage is not that wide and it is swathed in densely cluttered vegetation with an indoor/outdoor feel around its verdant courtyard. The one thing that will grab your attention, however, is that it’s nearly always crowded and the happy patrons seem to be enjoying themselves enormously.

Tatonka was originally opened in late 1996 and has become a well- established meeting and dining favourite of the many discerning locals associated with the hotels, resorts and property ventures that throng northwest Phuket. Then the tourists started discovering it and soon word spread, so much so, that these days you will find many returning vacationers who make it a priority to head straight over to Tatonka as soon as their cases are unpacked.

The popularity of Tatonka is mainly thanks to the personality of its genial, globe-trotting, owner and chef Harold Schwarz. He was born in Germany and served as a chef at some of Europe’s most famous hotels and restaurants, but like many of his countrymen he had exceedingly itchy feet. At an early age he had the romantic notion that he wanted to visit the wide open plains of North America’s buffalo country and learn first hand the ways of the Native American Indians.

“Tatonka” is a Native Indian name for the Great Buffalo and that proudly potent beast is the central motif of the restaurant, with Indian-style painting by Harold decorating its walls.

Harold travelled and worked as a chef all over the American southwest, then on to California, then east to the Hawaiian Islands and finally to Southeast Asia, where he fell in love with the food and the people of Thailand.

As he travelled, Harold accumulated an array of his favourite cuisines and dishes, which he came to call “Globetrotter Cuisine”. This eclectic amalgam represents some of the best dishes he experienced, primarily featuring Asian, Latino and Mediterranean influences. Add into this equation the abundant fresh local produce that he found in Thailand and you have the basis for the exciting culinary experience that is unique to Tatonka.

Harold takes an extremely hands-on approach to running his restaurant, either by being frenetically busy in the open-view kitchen, or sitting and chatting amiably with his customers to make sure they are enjoying the experience. His is undoubtedly the “soul” of the place and his passion and professionalism have built up his faithful following.

The dishes he creates are fresh and different and his evocation of North American cuisine, notably Cajun, blended with Asian influences, is outstanding. Fresh produce from local markets personally selected by Harold is used and cooking techniques and spices from various ethnic cuisines, combined with the local produce, have resulted in unique dishes such as sashimi spring rolls, shrimp taquitos, Thai bouillabaisse, blackened tuna on honey wasabi, or Peking duck pizza.

Harold is at pains to point out that the menu is continually evolving and subject to innovation as he is always looking to pioneer new and exciting dishes.

The menu features a large selection of Tapas style appetizers and the Tapas Platter, which can be created for any number of diners, is an ideal way to sample the wide range of tastes which characterise the Globetrotter Cuisine. Daily seafood specials, or a personal tasting menu, might be just one of the many suggestions that Harold will make as he sits with you at your table.

Great value for money is another of the restaurant’s strong points. Appetizers, for example, range from 200 baht and main courses from 350 to 650 baht. The restaurant has its own exotic cocktails, or choose a bottle from the carefully selected ‘Globetrotter’ wine list featuring bottles of house wine at 650 baht, or European and New World varietals from 1,050 baht.

Tatonka holds a unique place in Phuket with its style and ambiance and as a result is also featured as an “Insiders Tip” in several guide books such as Lonely Planet, Frommers and Insight Guides.

We are lucky indeed that the mighty buffalo has found its home in Phuket!

Tatonka: 382/19 Moo 1, SrisoontonRoad, Cherngtalay, Phuket 83110 e-mail tatonka@e-mail.in.th Tel: 076 324 349